In front of 'Ground-Zero' at HiroshimaWednesday, October 20, 2010
Even before the designated 8:30 am departure time, we’re off in a Japanese-sized bus. Each of us seemed to have a carry-on suitcase plus a large bag-like purse (except the guys). Suitcases needed to settle in the aisle which is where our guides ended up as well (on pull down seats, what a good idea!)
By ferry we’re off to Miyajima Island, a UNESCO designated world cultural centre. We can see rafts floating on the sea, oyster beds, we’re told. Hiroshima is the best place in Japan to enjoy oysters, especially in the late fall to winter season.
As we approach Miyajima Island, we see a huge vermillion-colored Torii Gate (16 meters high weighing 60 tons) made of camphor logs. It used to be the entrance to the island, and the gate to the Shinto shrine. No part of it is buried in the ground, there’s no man-made foundation; it’s merely sitting on the rock below the water. To prevent it from floating away, the crosspiece under the roof is box-like, filled with stones. One end of the crosspiece has the symbol of a sun, the other end the moon, the principle of Yin and Yang. The Torii gate is used for a festival every August when residents go the mainland when the moon is full and the tide is high.
We’re told Miyajima means shrine island. Since ancient times it has been regarded as a sacred island where God of Miyajima lives. To keep this island purified, its small population has had severe restrictions (forbidden to till the ground, to weave, to keep a dog or cat, to give birth or to be buried). To this day no one is buried here.
Deer greeted us when we arrived. They’re considered to be a messenger of the God, but we’re warned these ‘messengers’ will eat anything –paper, plastic straps, laces….
The Itsukushima Shrine is our destination. At the entrance to this shrine (and every Shinto shrine) is a water basin used in the purification ritual (wash your left hand, then your right hand, rinse your mouth and then clean the handle of the ladle).
The Itsukushima Shrine was first built in 593. There are additional shrines in its compound, each dedicated to its own gods or goddesses. We see the Purification Hall were a sacred stick is used to cleanse and purify the person before he or she prays to the gods in the Main Hall (throw money into the offertory box, bow twice, clap hands twice and bow again.)
Along the streets to the shrine there are 108 stone lanterns. In Buddhism it is said that man has 108 worldly sins and desires. On New Year’s Eve at midnight, every temple bell in Japan booms 108 times to ring out those worldly sins and desires.
Some of us walked up the long stairway to the 5-storied pagoda. Each roof represents the five elements: heaven, earth, air, fire and water.
Now we’re stopping at the many souvenir shops and restaurants along the street. Rice scoops and carvings are a traditional trade. Soft ice cream comes in an unusual flavor, green tea. Another common treat is a waffle in the shape of a maple leaf (a tree native to Hiroshima). We observe the automatic machine producing these in the shop window. The traditional filling was sweetened bean paste, but now they come with chocolate and custard cream cheese filling.
Too soon it’s time to ferry to the mainland. We board the bullet train, transfer to another train and arrive at a welcoming party at Gifu. What a rousing surprise the club has for us at a hall –a drum concert (as well as a variety of sweets and drinks). Then off to the home of our host.
Submitted by Jeannette Zollner
Pam Zollner & Olga Roth (Grandma!), June 13, 2008
